Friday, March 30, 2007

Dobet

A small group of us had dinner over at the Maquis. Spicey kedjenou and attiéké. Afterward I swung by the house to pick up Abdul and Moses.



Packed house at the Alliance for the concert by Dobet Gnahoré and her band. Standing room in fact. Fantastic music, available here. Moses declared it "very interesting"!

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Ghana at 50

I listened this morning on JoyFM to the 50th anniversary speech by Ghana's President Kufour. While I could have simply switched on my radio, it seemed somehow fitting to catch it via the Internet. National Public Radio had a live report as well for American listeners, which I caught via satellite.


Kwame Nkrumah, 1st President, at 1957 Ceremony

Accra is completely enveloped by an endless bolt of red, gold, and green cloth, quite marvelous to see, actually. Flags on cars, banners wrapped around trees, painted faces. Thousands gathered in Independence Square for the formal festivities. I hear Stevie Wonder will be in town to perform "Happy Birthday" later in the day.



The Government reportedly spent some $20 million to prepare for the celebrations. Not everyone's happy about that. Where one stands on Ghana at 50 seems to depend on where one sits. "Will the celebrations bring electricity to my village?" one young man asked me.

Hmm, maybe.

The country is growing fast (relative to its neighbors). Image is a factor in attracting investment. Lots of visitors will carry home impressions of pride, enthusiasm, and excitement.

"I'm very proud to be a Ghanaian!" said one woman interviewed by BBC in the crowd downtown. "This is a wonderful day," said another. "Ghana is seen as a rare African success story," BBC reports.


View of 50th Fireworks from My Bedroom Window

Friday, March 02, 2007

Fish

From Accra, traveling on the coast road past Teshie and Nungua, veering right at the police barrier, along the beach the fishmongers set up small booths, similar to those used by the sellers of mobile phone cards. Popular varieties are red fish, small yellowfin tuna, sole, croaker, and octopus.



The ladies are always glad to see me. I pay high prices. I ask only for the filet and let them keep the heads. What's not to like?



A recent report in IRIN News suggests the fishery in West Africa is being depleted. Catches seem slim. The ladies report they're not as busy as they used to be.