Ich bin ein Kölner

They call it Fasching in other parts of Germany and Austria, but Karneval (Carnival) in Köln (Cologne).

I arrived by train from Brussels and immediately met my local Carnival counselor Jürgen who had miraculously secured an extra ticket to Stunksitzung (hard to translate, something like stinky or troublesome or crazy meeting).



A local costume shop was glad to see me. The salesladies had a grand old time trying different ideas -- crazy wig, cowboy, lederhosen. We settled on a floppy hat with the inscription Total Jeck (total jerk) and a shirt in traditional red stripes.



We stood in line for a couple of hours to get a table pass, then started drinking. The 0.2 liter glasses come essentially automatically. And the contents is of course Kölsch (the name of the popular local brew, as well as the local German dialect).

I didn't get the jokes -- no English translation. But I knew when to link arms and sway with the increasingly jovial crowd. It was basically a vaudeville-type night with a live band and crazy skits. Lasted about 4 hours. Afterward (around midnight) we dined on great Turkish food.



Sunday was a day to wander around town and see the sights -- from the outside mostly, since everything except restaurants and bars was closed. There was a small parade for school kids, and their winner of a competition got to march the next day in the big event.

Rose Monday, quite a spectacle. Every bit as big as New Orleans, except that instead of beads, they throw very hard bars of chocolate, so keep your eyes open.



A highlight for me was the overtly political overtone of the whole affair. There was a controversial float of Angela Merkel, the German Chancellor, originally topless, ordered by city officials to be clad (a bit).



References to President Obama were everywhere. There was a book (in German) on the table in the apartment from which I watched the parade. Yes we can...



And there was a float. I believe that's the American president with Lady Liberty's foot on his back. The meaning escapes me.



The crowds were huge, as were the floats.



People lined the streets or hung out of open windows above. Some hung umbrellas upside down from their windows in order to catch errant throws of chocolate.



Everyone was in some kind of costume. Open beers on the street (in glass bottles, not plastic cups) was the order of the day (and the year I suppose).



Walking puppets -- my favorite.



Horses with riders clad in 18th century finery, reflecting the roots of the event in the ouster of French domination.